Innovative powder products for clean beauty

As a child, Elly Van der Heyden regularly helped out in her parents’ computer shop. ‘I thought it would be great to have my own business too,’ says the Leuven native. She also knew what it would involve: cosmetics. ‘My skin reacts strongly to almost every new product. When I couldn’t find the skincare I needed for my sensitive skin, I decided: I’ll just make it myself.’

Powder

Van der Heyden spent her entire time as a student working towards her goal. She studied chemistry at KU Leuven and completed an additional master’s degree focused on innovative entrepreneurship. During her placement at a pharmaceutical company, Van der Heyden was given the opportunity to develop a product from start to finish. This involved not just the chemistry and testing, but also suppliers, regulations, and the production line. ‘The powders I worked with had nothing to do with cosmetics, but I was able to apply every step I’d taken to my own business afterwards.’ By the time Van der Heyden graduated, the prototype of her first skincare product — a facial cleanser in powder form — was already ready. With a little water, the powder transforms into a gentle foam. By the end of 2022, cosmetics company Yui Skin was a reality. ‘Our cleanser is the first of its kind in Europe,’ says Van der Heyden. ‘In Japan and South Korea, powder products are hugely popular.’ Innovation is at the heart of everything she does. ‘Otherwise you’re just another new skincare brand.’

‘Products containing water spoil more easily and are chemically less stable’

Banned ingredients

Most skincare products consist largely of water, but Van der Heyden deliberately left that ingredient out. ‘It’s far more sustainable. Your product is lighter, requires less packaging material, and barely spoils.’ Allergens are also absent from Yui Skin’s products. Thanks to her chemistry background, Van der Heyden is able to scrutinise all the scientific research on ingredients. ‘It helps me determine which substances I do and don’t want in my products. We now have quite an extensive list of banned ingredients — and we go considerably further than the official regulations.’ Her choices earned the powder cleanser two Free From Skincare Awards last year.

Van der Heyden has since added an oil and a day cream to her webshop. ‘The cream does contain water, so that involved a great deal more on the chemistry side. Products containing water spoil more easily and are chemically less stable. That’s quite a challenge when your list of banned ingredients is extensive, but we managed it.’

Alongside launching new products, Van der Heyden wants to grow Yui Skin’s brand recognition. ‘And we want more retail outlets — pharmacies, for instance, and through beauty professionals. Not just in Belgium, but in the Netherlands and the rest of Europe too.’